Flywheel Grease Project (with a pictorial that's also valid for clutch changes and slave/throw-out bearing replacements) for a 1990 348ts, by Tamf328 (edited by No Doubt)

The entire job is not too difficult if you have the right tools. Most importantly, you will need a 60mm ring nut tool (flywheel only, not needed for clutch or throw-out), the clutch alignment tool (available on eBay for $10), torx plus bit, 13mm socket, paper towels, klubber grease, an impact gun, an air compressor for the impact gun, jackstands, chocks, and at least 1 floor jack.

  (60mm ring nut tool - hand-made by Pap 348)

 

This page shows the full steps to complete the greasing of the flywheel (by default, this means that this page *also* shows you how to replace a 348 clutch and/or slave throw-out bearing). However, if you are just replacing the clutch and not messing with the flywheel, then the job is even easier and quicker (and you won't need the 60mm ring nut tool, air compressor, or impact gun in that case).

Reasons To Re-grease: will reduce 348 rear chattering noise on shutdown and startup, may improve some hot start conditions, may improve the life of the flywheel, and may be necessary if you have had a flywheel grease leak.

 

MUFFLER REMOVAL

1). Disconnect the battery and chock the front wheels of the car, then raise the rear and position your safety jack stands. I used two jacks but any method will do as long as you create enough height clearance to get the muffler clear of the car.

I used jack stands on the sub-frame as shown. I do have a mid-rise lift but it wasnít really needed to do this job.

2). I next removed the bottom muffler using a transmission jack. You donít need it but it makes the job easier.

 

There are 4 bolts that connect the lower muffler to the upper piece, 2 on each exhaust seal on each side of the engine.

And two bolts that actually hold the bottom muffler to the car. Itís difficult to see here but Iím pointing with an extension ( the bolt is out, they are the spring loaded ones).

Next, these are the bolts that hold the bottom muffler to the car (see pointer). If you have the 1-piece Spider/SS exhaust or an aftermarket muffler, you'll be removing different bolts and will possibly need to remove the muffler heat shield on top, but then again, some 348 mufflers may give you enough clearance that you don't even have to remove the muffler to disconnect the clutch pumpkin, making this an even simpler project for lucky you!

Itís pretty obvious how the muffler comes off. Itís kind of heavy so be prepared to hold it when lowering it.

Lowering the muffler.

 

 

Once the muffler is removed and out of the way, the clutch and housing become accessible.

I have a clean 348, donít I?!

Another shot of the clutch.

 

PUMPKIN CLUTCH HOUSING REMOVAL

3). Now remove the 4 nuts holding the inspection plate to the bottom of the housing.

 

4). Unplug the bullet connector from the battery ground cable to the starter. Remove the nuts that hold the clutch housing to the transaxle.

What Iím pointing to here are the 3 bolts that hold the starter. Remove them and move the start motor back from the flywheel with enough clearance to remove the clutch housing. It doesnít have to be moved that far forward.

 

You have to take the clip off of the bleed pipe for the clutch slave cylinder, it has a spacer so remember how things go together. Itís pretty self evident as this point. Not rocket science. Now I can remove the clutch (still in the housing pumpkin). Itís heavy, so I used a transmission jack. The pumpkin sometimes is kind of stuck so you to wrestle it off. You may need to gently press the clutch pedal to release the cover and clutch assembly from the pilot bearing.

 

Just make sure youíve removed all of the bolts/nuts! Six nuts (around the pumpkin), three bolts (to the starter).

Congratulations! So far, so good.

 

DISASSEMBLE CLUTCH PACK

5). So now itís time to disassemble the clutch pack. MAKE SURE YOU MARK EVERYTHING (both the original position as well as the sequence/order-number in which removed it) so that you can reassemble the disk and plates accordingly. There are a few paint markings also from the factory to help a bit, too.

There are 6 13mm bolts that will remove the starter ring gear and the pressure plate. Loosen them each just a little at a time (loosen one, then move across the assembly and loosen its opposite, etc.) until they are all out. Youíll be letting pressure off the plate evenly this way rather than removing one entire bolt at a time.

If you remove each piece of the clutch pack one by one, flip them over and stack them right back up the same way in the same location then you shouldnít have any problems with reassembly later. Of course you marked them, right?! I used a small hammer and a punch to put dots on the components. I did this because there is a "heavy side" to each disk and plate etc. The factory marks this I believe with the blue paint as you see in some of the pictures.

I tried to keep everything as it was because I didnít want any thing out of balance that could cause vibration in the system when I reinstalled it.

 

Click here to Skip to "Re-Insert Clutch" if you are only replacing the clutch or throw-out bearing and not repacking the flywheel with grease

 

FLYWHEEL DISASSEMBLY

6).Now remove the 4 nuts holding the center pumpkin ring nut cover on. That cover is functional! Itís used because that ring nut is turning at the same speed as the engine when the clutch is engaged (Lamborghini may be from a tractor company, but this Ferrari has a functional, if hidden, power take-off connection! kidding). The cover is off in the picture below.

 

7). Next itís time to get out the ring nut tool, the air compressor, and the impact gun.

Youíll need to set the flywheel on some rags or foam or something to keep the assembly from spinning with the wrench. Youíll know exactly what I mean when you attempt to break that ring nut loose.

Donít mess with the hex nut in the middle of that ring nut. Just spin the whole ring nut off with the tool. I'm not trying to start an argument. I realize that some experienced, respected minds hold that the hex nut in the center of the ring nut is just for added torque for the ring nut, but my opinion is a bit different and this is my "how to" process, so humor me (please!).

Once you get that 60mm ring nut off, you *may* need to use a press to get the flywheel out (not shown). There is a bearing that is in the housing and the flywheel is seated in it. In the next picture the flywheel is out of the pumpkin.

Here is a picture of the flywheel assemble out of the housing. That threaded end is where the ring nut screws into and "seats" the flywheel into the housing. There is a spacer that you donít want to loose. Youíll see it once you remove the ring nut. Thatís where the hex bolt in the middle of the ring nut "bottoms" out on. I believe that hex bolt sets the depth of the flywheel in the housing. So that is why I say leave it where it is.

Here the 60mm ring nut is screwed on for illustration:

8). Remove the allen key bolts. There are 2 of them. My wrench is in one (above). Take those to a hardware store and get 2 bolts that are about an inch longer with the same thread pattern.

9). Mark the position of everything, especially the face of the flywheel. Now remove the 6 Torx-plus bolts.

Once you do that the flywheel face will come off. The flywheel face is what some people get resurfaced when its scored (cheap to have done if desired), but mine was in good shape so I just cleaned it with a scotch brite pad (non metallic). In the following picture you can see the flywheel face removed.

 

Once youíve done that the flywheel assembly (where the clutch disk binds) can be removed.

Now with the longer bolts that you just bought from the hardware store, thread them into the holes where the allen key bolts came out and tighten them up until they "bottom out" in the harmonic balancer part of the flywheel. The picture below shows where the bolts you bought should be threaded.

Next take alternating turns on each bolt, tighten each a little at a time. This will separate the flywheel. I found it worked without damaging anything.

The wrench (above) shows where you screw in the store bought bolts to separate the flywheel.

Hereís what my flywheel looked like after 17 years of use (and recent leaking gear oil mixed with grease). Try to keep everything in order; do things slowly. There are a lot of parts in there.

Ok, so with the top cover off, some of the parts "stuck" to the inside face of the flywheel. What I did was to place them all into the same half of the flywheel to keep things in order. In the next picture Iíve kind of cleaned the main part of the flywheel with paper shop towels.

I cleaned the cover of the flywheel very well.

If you look in the plastic containers there are 12 "O" rings that fit into the flywheel halves where the 6 torx bolts hold the assembly together. Donít lose them! They are seated under the flat washers.

So now what I did was to clean each part piece by piece and orient them on the cover to basically keep everything in its place for reassembly.

Once everything was out of the main flywheel part, then I cleaned it, too.

By the way, everything was cleaned by using spray brake cleaner and paper shop towels.

The following picture shows all parts cleaned and ready for reassembly. HUA!

 

FLYWHEEL ASSEMBLY

Now start assembly. Place the O-rings first in the main part of the flywheel. The O-rings go in the flywheel half where the 6 torx bolts go through. Youíll see the indention where the o-rings seat. Use a little grease on them to keep them in place. Next, insert those flat washers that keep the O-ring in place and sandwich the spacers. I also put some grease on the plastic pieces to hold them in place.

I used pencils to line things up before inserting the inside frame of the flywheel. Then I just started reassembly by putting the internal components back in their original position. No big deal.

(as shown above)

You can see that the cover of the flywheel has the flat washers and O-rings in place and the two remaining plastic pieces. I used grease on those plastic pieces so they wouldnít move when I flipped the cover over to put things back together.

Now I smeared that grease all over it. I think about 280 grams. I used a little more than what was in half the can. The can said 500 grams. I used a plastic scraper, but anything comparable would work, I suppose.

 

Next move those 6 flat washers over and down on to the pencils and finally flip the cover over into place. Make sure the little O-rings and those plastic parts stay in place when you are sliding things over the pencils.

Tighten the torx bolts evenly to "I forgot the torque value"

 

Replace the allen bolts

Make sure you didnít loose that spacer that is in the flywheel. It should be down in that threaded opening where the ring nut goes.

Reassemble the flywheel in the housing and tighten the 60mm ring nut with an impact wrench (while holding the flywheel with clean rags so that it wonít spin).

 

Flip the housing over so that you can re-insert the clutch pack. Replace piece by piece in the same order and position as you removed it (from your markings/notes). Compare to the blue paint that the factory usedÖ

Shown above is the clutch pack back in the housing, but I haven't started the six 13mm bolts yet.

What you can do at this point is to just barely thread those 6 bolts in to start them. To install the new clutch, position the clutch pack and use the two long bolts from the starter/clutch cover to help first compress the clutch pack. Place these long bolts 180 degrees apart in place of 2 shorter 13mm bolts. Before you tighten, use the clutch alignment tool (shown below) to align the plates to the pilot bearing tool to get things in the proper position for installing the clutch back onto the output shaft of the transmission.

 

 As the clutch pack is compressed, start the other clutch pack bolts as they meet the threads and then replace the starter bolts with the correct final two clutch pack bolts and torque to 20 ft-lbs on all six 13mm bolts. 

And thatís it! Congratulations! Your clutch cover pumpkin assembly should go back in the car with ease. Youíll have to hold it up, of course, and turn the clutch assembly clockwise and anti-clockwise to get it lined up with the output shaft, but other than that it should go back together easier than trying to get it off.

Alternatively, place the clutch cover assembly on to the tip of the pilot bearing/transmission shaft. As the cover goes on, rotate the free rotating clutch assembly until it indexes on the small splined input shaft. Use a large rubber mallet on the cover to drive the cover on, and as this is being done turn the wheels of the car (in 5th gear) to make the large splined clutch shaft rotate so as to index with the clutch plates on the clutch assembly. Drive the rest of the cover into place. This may be somewhat difficult as it needs to interference fit over the pilot bearing. A tip is to drive the cover into place enough so the longer starter motor bolts can be threaded until just hand tight to the cover, then rubber mallet the opposite side of the cover, then tighten the bolt a bit more, then rubber mallet again until the cover is flush with the transmission case.

 

*If you are replacing the slave/throw-out bearing assembly, then click here now

Replace the housing bolts and nuts (donít forget the bleed clip and spacer for the slave cylinder line). Replace the previously disconnected battery cable to/from the starter.

 

Replace the inspection plate and the muffler. Reconnect your battery. Remove your safety jack stands. Lower your 348 and then remove the front wheel chocks. You should be good to go.

 

 

 

My flywheel didnít cause the engine to have a hot start problem. I did it because it was a little too noisy for me on start up or shutdown. Iím happy with the way it turned out.

The cost was about $100.00 for the parts and grease. I replaced the triple seals because thatís what I think caused the grease to be thinned out. Inside the flywheel smelled like gear oilÖ

Happy wrenching, Ferrari Fanatics!

 

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